Wednesday, September 24, 2025

Vietnam and Cambodia (September 6-22, 2025)

We decided to book a Mekong River Cruise from Siem Reap Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Because it was a long way to travel, we added a week of travel/sightseeing before the cruise started.

Here is our itinerary:

  • Days 1-2: Fly from Phoenix to San Francisco, then connect in Tokyo, before flying to Hanoi.
  • Day 3: Recover from jet lag and sightsee in Hanoi.
  • Day 4: Book a day trip to Ninh Binh
  • Days 5-7: Take a 2n/3d Halong Bay/Lan Ha Bay Cruise
  • Day 8: Spend morning in Hanoi before flying to Siem Reap, Cambodia in the afternoon.
  • Day 9: Visit Angkor Wat

  • Day 10: Begin 7-night AmaWaterways Riches of the Mekong Cruise - Depart from Kampong Cham (about a 5 hour drive from Siem Reap).
    • Day 11: Morning-visit Angkor Ban, and Afternoon- visit Oknha Tey Village (Silk Island) and local school
    • Day 12: Phnom Penh - Morning- vist Royal Palace and Central Market  Afternoon- Visit S21 Detention Center and Killing Fields 
    • Day 13: Phnom Penh - Visit Oudong Buddist Monastery
    • Day 14: Relax on the river cruise and cross into Vietnam
    • Day 15: Morning- Visit Tra Su Forest and Sanctuary
    • Day 16: Morning- Visit Sa Dec local market and Lover'sHouse. Afternoon- visit Cai Be candy and rice paper workshop 
  • Day 17: End of river cruise. Get transported to Ho Chi Minh City and spend day sightseeing
  • Day 18: Fly from Ho Chi Minh City to Tokyo, then connect in San Francisco before flying home to Phoenix.


Days 1-3: Travel and Hanoi

Days 1-2: Travel

We had an early flight to SFO, then killed about 4 hours in a lounge, before boarding our flight to NRT. I'm glad we splurged on premium economy! The flight was comfortable except the person in the row in front of us had cabbage farts the entire flight!

Our last flight from NRT to HAN was brutal, even with extra legroom seats. It was cramped and we were tired. We landed a little after 10 pm and quickly cleared immigration and customs. We arrived at our hotel just before midnight.

Day 3: Hanoi

After a nice breakfast at the Tirant Hotel in Hanoi

we decided to see city highlights using the Hanoi Hop On Hop Off bus.

The first place we hopped off was at stop 5  - Quan Thanh Temple.



After visiting the temple, we stopped at a cafe for a coconut coffee, egg coffee, and fresh coconut.

We preferred the coconut coffee over the egg coffee.

After getting back on the bus, we hopped off at Stop 8, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long.


This stop also gave us access to the flag tower of Hanoi (stop 3). 


We stopped at another cafe for an iced coffee and cold water before getting back on the bus.

We then hopped off at stop 10, the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton).


At this point, we were hot and tired, so returned to our starting point next to Hoàn Kiếm Lake.

After a shower and nap, we each got a 1-hr foot and leg massage at Lua Spa, which was across the street from our hotel 

Then we walked to beer street and had a beer (my strawberry beer was tasty) then found a restaurant for dinner.

After dinner, we headed back to the hotel, showered, and were asleep by 8 pm. I blame jet lag, and not being old!

Day 4: Ninh Binh

Day 4:

We had a fun day trip to Ninh Binh today with Hanoi Backstreet Tours.

Once we arrived in Ninh Binh, we visited the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

and learned more about Vietnamese culture, history and traditional architecture. 


We then headed to Mua cave area. This area had caves to explore, lotus flower fields


waterfalls,


and a 500 step climb that overlooks the Tam Coc valley and Ngo Dong river. 

I started the climb but bailed early on. I chose to explore the lotus fields and waterfalls on the ground while Steve climbed to the top). 

Now that we were hot and sweaty, we headed to Tam Coc and boarded a foot-rowed boat.

The ride lasted 1.5 hours and passed through caves 


rice paddies,  and the surrounding limestone karsts.

After my very ungraceful exit from the boat, we enjoyed a huge lunch at a local restaurant that included these dishes: spring rolls, chicken, fish, goat, tofu, stir fried cabbage, and fruit.

During lunch, a thunderstorm arrived and it began pouring rain right before we started the jeep tour of the countryside, so very few pictures were taken during this part of the tour.


Steve was in his element when they let him drive and look under the hood.


Following the jeep tour, we headed back to Hanoi. We were pretty tired and weren't really hungry, so we had a cocktail and appetizer at our hotel before going to bed for the night 

Days 5-7: HaLong Bay Cruise

Day 5: 
After breakfast at our hotel in Hanoi, we were picked up around 8 am to head toward Halong Bay / Lan Ha Bay for our 2 night cruise with Peony Cruise.

After checking in at the port, we enjoyed another coconut coffee while we waited to board the tender.
After a 30- minute tender ride 
we were welcomed on board, then served a buffet lunch.
While eating lunch, we cruised past  limestone karst formations. The original itinerary stated we would visit the Dark and Bright cave, and could choose to ride in bamboo boat or kayak through the cave. I booked this cruise to do this. However, the water level was too high, so instead, kayaking was off the back of the boat. I'm not coordinated enough for that, so Steve kayaked
 while I relaxed in the cruise
 and enjoyed the scenery.
As kayaking time was ending, a rainstorm rolled into the area, causing the landscape to have a mysterious appearance.
After dinner, there was a happy hour, which we took part in
but skipped the spring roll making lesson, since we know how to make them. 
Dinner followed. The first course of prawns with mango was really good
but the rest of the courses were pretty mediocre (not bad, just not memorable).

Shortly after dinner, we went to our room where we relaxed and watched the bay from our balcony.

Day 6 (Day 2 of Peony Cruise):
We woke up early and got a hint of a sunrise 

and a better view of the bay as it got lighter out.
I enjoyed a nice omelette and bowl of chicken pho for breakfast 
Followed by some tropical fruits 
 After breakfast, we were transferred to a dayboat to go further into Lan Ha Bay.
Our first stop was supposed to be on Cat Ba Island to visit Viet Hai village by bike or tram. Unfortunately, waves were too strong to reach the island, so we (and other ships) had to turn around.

Instead, we stopped to ride sampans through sea caves (not sure which ones)
 
This change made me happy, since I was more interested in this than visiting the village (although we were promised fish pedicures in the village!)

Once again, we had a bit of rain, but it didn't last long.
 
After lunch, we were supposed to visit a beach were we could kayak and swim. Since we couldn't reach the beach, kayaking was from the back of the boat again. So once again, only Steve participated.
When kayaking ended, we returned to the main boat for happy hour then dinner. Dinner was a little better than the first night, but not by much. After dinner, Steve went squid fishing and actually caught a small one in less than 5 minutes. 
Day 7 (Day 3 of Peony cruise)
Today started similar to yesterday. We caught a nice sunrise 
Then we had breakfast.
Then there was an excursion option to visit Trung Trang Cave on Cat Ba Island. Because the excursion was one way and you couldn't turn around part way through, I skipped it, but Steve went. He said I would have been fine with the 150 steps, but not with having to crawl in some places, so it was a good decision on my end.
When he returned, we checked out of our room, had a light lunch, then were transferred back to the Tirant Hotel in Hanoi.

We were given a surprise upgrade to a suite
Although, I told Steve it probably wasn't much of an upgrade on a Friday night, since it would be noisy outside Shortly after checking in, we crossed the street for another massage. I had another foot/leg massage and Steve got a shiatsu massage.

After that, we further explored Old Quarter and had dinner (we shared a banh mi and fried seafood spring rolls). Both were tasty.

After dinner, Steve went back for a second massage, while I sat on my noisy balcony and listened to the band playing at the end of the road.