Sunday, October 29, 2006

Galapagos Summary and Tips

One of the greatest challenges when booking a Galapagos trip is figuring out which islands to visit. In part, this is going to vary by the time of year. Which animals do you want to see? Do you want to see them in mating season or with newly born young? Do you need to snorkel in warm water or could you handle the cold water? (You don't want to miss snorkeling!)

During my trip during late September / early October, I knew I was missing most of the young of the blue footed boobies, but I was there in time to see the mating rituals of the waved albatross and the frigate birds.

Below are the islands I visited and the animals that I thought were highlights of each site:

North Seymour

  • frigate birds and swallow-tailed gulls
EspaƱola

  • Gardner Bay - sea lions, sally lightfoot crabs
  • Punta Suarez - waved albatross, nazca boobies, red-billed tropic birds, marine iguanas (bright red and green), mocking birds
Floreana

  • Punta Cormorant- flamingos, sting rays
  • Post Office Bay - horse flies, snorkeling with sea lions
Santa Cruz

  • Puerta Ayora - tortoises at the Darwin Research Center, finches
  • Highlands - wild tortoises
  • Tortuga Negra - blue footed boobies, golden cownose rays, pelicans
Isabela

  • Punta Moreno - flamingos, white tipped reef sharks
  • Elizabeth Bay - sea turtles, penguins, herons
  • Urvina Bay - land iguanas, painted locusts, mocking birds
Fernandina

  • Punta Espinoza - flightless cormorants, galapagos hawk, marine iguanas
Santiago

  • South James Bay - fur seals, galapagos scorpion, yellow warbler
Bartolome

  • penguins

General Tips:

  1. Read as much as you can about the animals and geology of the islands before you go. That way you already have an idea of what to look for on each of the islands and what it looks like. While the guide was pointing out animals for much of the rest of the boat and telling them about the biology/ecology of those animals, I was able to half listen and concentrate on getting better pictures. Plus, I didn't need to write down that slide #243 was a nazca boobie, because I was already able to identify it.
  2. Selecting your yacht can be a daunting task. You have to balance the itinerary you want with the cost, level of comfort, and availability. Even after doing that, be prepared to be flexible, since your yacht and itinerary is still subject to change (weather, mechanical issues, or "lost" reservations).
  3. On the smaller yachts, "luxury" really isn't luxury. I went on the "luxury" yacht Beluga. The Beluga was clean, comfortable, served excellent meals, and provided good customer service. However, the cabins were still very small. Only soap was provided (no shampoo or other toiletries typically associated with luxurious accomodations). The only reason this really stands out to me is that I accidentally packed a container of body wash, rather than shampoo. I noticed this the first day in Quito, and decided not to buy a small bottle of shampoo because I was sure that my luxury yacht would provide some. I was wrong. I spent the cruise washing my hair with body wash and soap - although not a big deal, it is something to know.
  4. While the trails are fairly short (typically 1-2 km) and relatively flat, the terrain can be very uneven and rocky. If you have weak ankles or balance problems, be sure to bring sturdy shoes and even a walking stick. I found both to be very useful.
  5. You also need to be able to get in and out of the pangas. You will do this multiple times a day - from the yacht, to the island, from the island, to the yacht, and often times in/out at open sea while snorkeling. Sometimes the waves are quite rough, so again balance is required. If you are clumsy or heavy/fat, inflatable zodiacs are more stable than "canoe shaped" boats. Just something else to consider when booking your yacht.
  6. If you visit August - October, the water will be cold. You don't want to miss snorkeling, so a wet suit comes in very handy (it is a necessity if you can't handle cold water). You will want to check to see if your yacht rents wet suits and snorkel equipment. If not, you will want to provide your own. If you are a difficult size to fit (especially very large), your yacht may not have anything that will fit you (or if you need a prescription lens in your snorkel mask). Be prepared and bring your own. It's worth the extra cost and effort, so you don't miss snorkeling.
  7. Bring lots of sunscreen and use it EVERYWHERE. Make sure to get your feet, back of legs, ears, neck, and even top of head if you don't wear a hat or have thick hair.
  8. Most important, bring your sense of humor. Being in close quarters with a dozen or so strangers for a full week can be a challenge if you aren't willing to go with the flow and laugh once in a while.

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